This homeowner tried to make his home more comfortable by applying fiberglass insulation between the floor joists, in his vented crawl space

What Happens To A Vented Crawl Space In The Winter?
Crawl space vents are designed to pull outside air into your home, creating a continuous supply of outside air that moves through the crawl space at all times.

While many would debate the usefulness of ventilating a crawl space at any time of the year, contractors can certainly agree that during cold weather, these vents should be firmly closed. However, the truth of the matter is that few homeowners actually perform this yearly task.

How A Vented Crawl Space Affects Your Home’s Energy Efficiency
The purpose of your crawl space is to house the utilities in your home, including utilities that use energy to create heat, such as your home’s furnace and air duct system, as well as your hot water heater and pipes.

Housing these utilities in the crawl space during the cold winter season means that they will have to continually work harder and use more energy to do their daily task. This has a major impact on your home’s utility bills!

Issues With Comfort & Your Quality Of Life
Any homeowner who has been in their attic during the summer (or has seen snow melting unevenly on a home with a poorly insulated attic in the winter) knows that heat rises upwards in a home, leaving the building through the attic and/or upper levels.

To replace the air leaving your home through the upper levels, new air is sucked upwards from the basement, crawl space, and lower levels of your home. This is true even if your crawl space has floor joists insulated with fiberglass, as fiberglass is a porous material that does not inhibit air movement.

Cold winter air moving upwards through your crawl space leads to cold floors underfoot and a drafty environment in your home. If your air ducts are also cold, then the drafty feeling of your home is increased.

Pest & Rodent Infestations
Rodents and other pests will seek the warmest, safest place they can in order to survive the winter. If your crawl space has open vents, they will provide an open pathway for these insects and animals to enter in to your home.

Mice and rats are particularly attracted to the crawl space environment, which is significantly warmer than the environment outside. Once inside your home, they will be more than happy to nest in any fiberglass insulation in the space and live, breed, create waste, and die there. Rodents are also known to chew on wires, which presents a very real and dangerous fire hazard to homeowners.

Advantages To Sealing Your Crawl Space
By sealing your crawl space and installing a vapor barrier on the walls and floors of the crawl space, you can hold back cold winter air, prevent drafts, and create a physical barrier to deter mice and pests from entering your home.

Many crawl space insulation products,such as rigid foam insulation and spray foam, are able to do double duty in your crawl space, providing additional energy efficiency while also offering all of the benefits of home insulation.

As an additional benefit, sealing and insulating your crawl space will protect the space from outside sourced of moisture, such as summer humidity which will condensate on surfaces in the cool, underground environment of the crawl space. This moisture has been proven many times to create an environment that is ideal for mold and rot, which can lead to structural damage to wood floor joists and girders.

Basement Systems pioneered the crawl space encapsulation industry with the CleanSpace System, designed to create a healthier, more energy efficient, and more valuable space in your crawl space. We offer free, on-site estimates and inspections for your home.  Contact us today for more information and to locate a dealer in your area.

Sump pump failure, on the other hand, is the cause of many basement floods.

Sump pumps are mechanical devices, therefore prone to malfunction, and they need a source of power to work.

They can also be improperly installed, which can interfere with the way they function and, since there are so many types, brands, models and capacities, it is hard for a homeowner without the proper knowledge, to  pick the right pump for the job.

Below are the most common types of sump pump failure, and what you need to do to prevent them.

1 – Overwhelmed Sump Pump

Sometimes a single sump pump just isn’t enough to handle the job. Sometimes the pump is simply not powerful or reliable enough.
Plastic, cheap sump pumps for example, often can’t keep up with the high volume of water that pours in, especially during heavy rains. It will burn out or fail to pump water as quickly as needed.<

At Basement Systems we only recommend and install high capacity, cast iron, Zoeller brand pumps as the primary pumps for all our systems. We’ve tested many other pumps and they were proven to be the most reliable and powerful in the industry.

Upgrading your sump pump and adding a battery backup sump pump to the system, usually solves this problem. In some rare cases you might need more than one sump pump and back up system, installed in different corners of the basement.

2- Pump works but there is no water coming into the sump pit..

This is a classic sign of improperly installed sump pump. Many contractors install a sump pump in the basement but do not link it to a drainage system.

A sump pump only works properly if there is a drain tile installed externally or internally, along the internal perimeter of the basement. The drain tile collects all the ground water from around the foundation, and relies on gravity to channel and discharge it into the sump pump. If the drain tile is clogged, collapsed, inexistent, or just not installed with the proper pitch, it won’t divert the water to the pit, and the best sump pump in the world will not keep your basement dry.

3- Clogged Sump Pumps and Switches

Sump pits that do not have a lid can easily fill with dirt and debris which can cause a sump pump to clog. Likewise, if you have a sump pump that sits straight against the bottom of a dirty sump pit its mechanical parts are liable to clog with dirt and debris. If this interferes with the pump’s operation, the system will slow or stop.

These same debris can cause the “float switch”, which causes the pump to turn on and off as the water level in the pit changes, to clog or jam as well.

If these switches clog, become jammed, or (in the case of cheap sump pump models) become tangled in the rest of the system, the sump pump switch will either stop working entirely or be stuck in the “on” position, meaning that it will run nonstop.

Our sump pump systems include a sump container with an air tight sealed lid that will not only prevent debris from falling in it; it will also keep small children and pets safe and the water from the pit from evaporating back into your basement. The system also includes a pedestal that keeps the sump from coming in contact with the bottom of the container, which is where the silt accumulates.

4 – Frozen or Clogged Discharge Lines

If the discharge lines are frozen or clogged, the system can’t get rid of the water being pumped.

The discharge line needs to be kept clear and it is a good idea to protect the end of the discharge line with a cover, like the Basement Systems’ LawnScape Outlet. This product keeps debris and small animals from getting into the discharge line.

To deal with frozen discharge lines we offer an attachment called IceGuard.  Installed at the beginning of the line, as it exits the basement, it will keep the water flowing out of the pipe if the line is frozen.

5 – Power Lost to the Sump Pump

TripleSafe has not one, but two backup pumps, and one of them is battery operated

When the pump stops working it is a good idea to check if it has power. In these cases, the sump might be working properly, but has no electricity to power it on. Often, the sump is unplugged – accidentally or someone forgot to plug it back in. Check the circuit breaker, it might have tripped and need to be reset.

There are of course, the cases in which the pump is down because of a power outage. The storms and torrential downpours that have the potential to flood a basement are often the same ones that knock down the power lines.

At Basement Systems we highly recommend that you have a high capacity battery operated backup sump pump to keep your basement protected when power is lost for any of the above reason.

Our sump pump systems, often include an alarm to let you know when a backup pump kicks in. For the ultimate protection, consider installing a TripleSafe System, which has not one, but two backup sump pumps, one of which is battery operated. The TripleSafe reduced the odds of a basement flood to statistical insignificance.

6 – Sump Pump Running Non-Stop.

Sump pumps that run continuously, non-stop, or way too often, regardless of the weather conditions or season, may be a sign of different problems, all of which need to be addressed immediately, before the overworked pump burns out. Here’s the most common causes:

• Stuck sump pump switches.
  The float switch becomes clogged, jammed, or (in cheap sump models) the switch becomes tangled in the system. In some cases, the vibrations of the sump pump as it runs can cause it to begin to lean on the edge of the sump pit or liner, disabling the sump pump switch.
• The Sump Pump Liner and/or the Liner is Too small or Too Big.
  In some cases the sump pump is just not big enough to handle the job, so it runs continuously to keep up. In other instances, the pump may be powerful enough, but the sump pit is so small, and fills up so quickly that it triggers the sump pump to work more often than it should. In the industry we call it a short cycling sump pump.
• The check valve is missing or broken.
  Because the sump pump is installed below grade, the discharge line go upwards until it can exit the basement at some point above grade, when the pipe is then pitched downhill, relying on gravity to discharge the water. The check valve, installed in the discharge line, prevents the water from coming back into the pit before it reaches the point in which it begins to roll downhill. A broken or missing check valve will cause 1/3 to 2/3 of that water to flow right back into the pit, overworking the pump.
• Continually flooding sump pit.
  In very rare cases, there is just a continuous flow of water into the sump pit due to a high water table or an underground spring. If the water table is too high, raising the sump pit a bit might help. Upgrading the system or adding an extra sump pump on another corner of the basement might help.

If the sump pump is running non-stop under normal conditions, there is a chance that it will fail when you need it most: during a heavy rain. Get a technician to look at it before bad weather strikes, because that is when the technicians will most likely be extremely busy, and you might not be able to schedule service until it is too late.

If your sump pump is not running properly or needs and upgrade, contact us for a free Sump Pump evaluation.

First, make sure that the soil around the foundation is properly graded. It should slope away from the walls.

If you have concrete sidewalks, a driveway make sure they too are diverting the water away and not towards the house.

Keep in mind that that soil, which was once dug out in order for the basement to be built, is not as compact as the undisturbed portion of the terrain surrounding the area, and tends to settle overtime and might need to be re-graded. It also soaks up more water than the surrounding soil, creating a false water table. In the industry, we call it the “clay bowl effect”, which is the main cause of most basement leaks.

This is why it is very important to keep that area as dry as possible, by providing adequate foundation drainage and properly managing the rain water.

Flowerbeds should not cause the water to pool close to the wall, and plants that need regular watering should be avoided, sprinklers should never be too close, and

Downspout extensions keep gutters from discharging water too close to the foundation walls.

If you have a basement, not having any gutters is a very bad idea. They need to be installed, and kept clean, free of debris and in good working condition.

Likewise, having gutters to capture all the water and snow melt falling from the roof, only to have them pour all that water next to your basement walls is not exactly a good idea if you want a dry basement.

Although we specialize in foundation drainage, we also provide yard drainage solutions, such as downspout extensions and discharge outlets as part of our set of comprehensive solutions to keep your basement dry all the time!

Contact us for a free in-home estimate and ask our home representative for information in all the yard drainage options we offer.

Water on expanding soil caused this basement wall to bow.

Bill Loden, a seasoned home inspector from Madison, AL tells Consumer Reports: “If there are 10 things that can go wrong with a house, 15 of them have to do with water.”

Having dealt with water intrusion problems for the past 20 years we know that he is not exaggerating.

Water can be especially hard on foundations because, being entirely or partially buried in wet soil, they are the areas of the house that are in constant contact with water. Rain water, if not properly controlled and diverted, can inflict an enormous amount of damage in a home’s foundation, sometimes compromising its structural integrity.

Water affects foundation in three main ways:

Hydrostatic Pressure:

It can cause more than just basement leaks. When the soil around the foundation is over saturated with water, the resulting hydrostatic pressure can push the walls inward, causing them to crack and bow. This can happen all of a sudden, during a period of heavy rains, or overtime.

Expanding Soils:

In some areas of the country, the clay-rich soil will expand when saturated with water, applying an enormous pressure against the foundation walls, causing them to bow, crack or shift.

Erosion:

Rain water or underground springs can slowly wash away the soil that supports the foundation, causing foundation settlement. Early foundation settlement signs aren’t sometimes obvious and can be easily dismissed by the homeowner until they become serious enough to demand professional intervention. Signs include sinking, uneven or unleveled floors, doors and windows that do not close properly, drywall cracks, tilting chimneys.

Don’t Panic!

A puddle on the floor or a small crack on the basement wall is usually something homeowners feel like they can deal with, and many actually put up with for many years, before they consider calling a pro.

On the other hand, a sinking foundation, or a bowing, cracking basement wall can rob many of their sleep. Understandably so: the very structure that keeps the whole house standing, is seriously compromised, and that is nothing to be taken lightly.

Fortunately, in many cases, the structural damage is not as bad as it looks, and thanks to modern foundation repair technologies, most problems can be solved.

Basement Systems, through our sister company Foundation Supportworks, offers the most advanced and reliable foundation repair solutions, for all types of foundation problems. With products ranging from foundation piers, to wall anchors, and crawl space jacks, there is hardly any type of structural damage that can’t be solved.

Posted via web from basementsystemsinc’s posterous

After three years of living in basement-related forums & web sites on a daily basis, I’ve come to a few conclusions:

1. Basement-related web sites and forums have become an impossible maze of bad advice, fad markets, and outdated advice.
2. Homeowners are taking this advice & returning to the same forums when the advice fails
3. Repeat Steps 1 & 2

As part of a network that’s been reputable in the basement business since 1987 nationally, we’d like to send some good horse sense into the ether.

Here, unequivocally, are the five most common mistakes that lead to disasters in the basement:

1. Blowing Air Out Of or Into the Basement

Some people try to dry their basement by venting air out of the basement.  Others try to vent it by sending air into the space.  Either way, you’re wasting money and making the problem worse.

When air is blown or vented out of the basement (or crawl space), you’re literally throwing money out the window.  The air you blow out will be replaced by air from upstairs in your home.  You pay to condition that air!

And if you’re counting on air to be blown IN to the house, remember that it’s going to push condition air out of the house so it can end up in your home, where you’ll have to pay to condition it.  And when it’s raining, snowing, foggy, damp, or humid outside, is sending that air into your cool, underground space really going to help?  Thousands of mold, damp basements and crawl spaces say “NO!”
2. Venting the Dryer into the Basement
Well, you might as go downstairs with your wet laundry and wring it out on the floor.  Because that’s what you’ll be doing if the dryer vents into the basement or crawl space.

As you send all that moist air down to your below-grade space, its humidity will condensate on everything. What can you look forward to?  Mold, rot, mildew, and damage to all organic material in the space.  Vent those dryers outside!

3. Improper Gutter Drainage
We have gutters so we can take water from the roof and send it away from the home.  That’s right– AWAY from the home.

Check your gutters:  are they dropping water off directly around your foundation?  Is it pooling there, freezing in the winter, and creating puddles in warmer weather?  Is it leaking into your basement, filling your window wells, or causing your soil to swell and heave & crack the foundation?

Why do we have gutters again?
4. Painting the Walls

Paint is for upstairs.

When you paint your basement walls, or try to seal them with a waterproof coating, you’re asking for trouble.  Laytex-based paints contain organic material, and as such, they’re going to grow mold, mildew, and take damage from moisture.

And did you know that concrete is porous?  Very much so, it turns out.  That’s why people try to seal them with waterproof coatings.  Unfortunately, it’s not just water that passes through those pores- you also get a white, flaky mineral powder known as efflorescence.

This efflorescence is going to build up behind seals that adhere to the walls.  In time, you can count on this buildup to push the coatings off, causing them to blister, peel, and flake off your walls.  Once they do, and it usually takes between three months and six years, your walls are now officially ruined.

This is what happens when you use conventional finishes in a basement.

5. Finishing with Drywall & Carpet
Think: Paper.  Fiberglass resins.  Wood.  And, heaven forbid, carpet on concrete.

It’s not going to work.  It just doesn’t work.

The Basement Systems network has seen, hundreds (maybe thousands) of ruined basements finished with drywall.  When the basement doesn’t flood with groundwater, it’s a washing machine hose, water heater, flooded window well, burst pipe, or some other plumbing failure.  One shot, and even mold-resistant drywall is ruined.

And remember that concrete is porous?  That humidity is going to build up underneath the carpet and behind the drywall.  First you’ll get the musty smells.  Then the mold.  Then it’s all over for your basement.

Find a basement finishing system that includes a written warranty- one that holds up even if the basement floods.  Read the fine print.  Read it again.  Research them online, then go for it.  You can finish your basement– but please, not with drywall.

Your Basement Contractors
If you live anywhere in the U.S., or in Canada, U.K. and Ireland, we’d like to help you with all your basement & foundation questions.  If you’re looking for [services], we’re the contractors for you!

If you’d like your basement questions answered and would like a free cost quote & inspection, call us up or shoot us an e-mail today.  If you’re not sure, check out our reputation with the BBB, and ask us for a few customer references.  We’d be glad to oblige!

Ask the Expert columnist Tim Carter suggests that you set up a timely and fair payment plan. Also, get everything in writing and keep records so you can reference it later if you need to.

A trustworthy, professional, financially stable basement contractor can be a huge help to you if you decide to remodel your basement. He will provide important and beneficial advice that can only come from an expert, such as amenities to add to your basement like a bathroom or kitchenette.

Read more about hiring basement contractors here.

Ask your contractor how they train their employees. If it’s trial and error, you may want to find out how many jobs they have done prior to hiring them for yours.

We just ended our three-day system design and installation training at our facility in Connecticut. We had 107 representatives from 39 dealerships who attended to learn how to design and install our basement waterproofing products and systems. We do this particular training three times per year, and a total of 20 trainings on various aspects of the waterproofing, crawl spaces, and basement finishing each year.

I enjoy these trainings a lot as we get to see people from around the the U.S., Canada, and U.K. The Basement Systems dealer network is made up of a great group of people, as since its inception 20 years ago, it has been policy to only recruit the best waterproofing contractors to be dealers, and this always included nice friendly people who would represent the company well.

The training focused on all aspects of designing the most logical and cost-effective custom-tailored system for the home owner using a combination of investigative research including a detailed inspection, an interview with the home owner and our multimedia presentation software, Basement Vision, which shows the transformation of a wet basement into a dry, comfortable, healthy space.