View Full Version : Framing over thermaldry floor
02-26-2007, 10:48 AM
I just had waterguard, triple safe, sani dry, thermal dry wall and flooring installed. I had a finished basement prior to any of the work being done but had water problems. The salesman told me to remove all of the walls and framing and that the 2X4 framing should go on top of the thermal dry flooring. The installer told me that liquid nails construction adhesive had to be used for attaching the base plate to the thermal dry flooring. I doubt this would pass any kind of inspection and it would have been nice if I would have known this in the beginning.
Anyway, I used a construction adhesive that it suitible for plastic and wood. I let the base plates set for longer than the 24 hours that the adhesive indicated and also cut studs to keep a lot of pressure on the base plates while the adhesive set. As soon as I removed the stud the base plate popped off the thermal dry. As soon as I put a little pressure on te other base plates, they came right up. This set the project back a few days now. What can be done to properly secure the framing to the thermal dry flooring? Or should I cut the flooring back past the base plates? I never would have removed all the inside/outside walls if it wasn't necessary.
03-14-2007, 12:02 PM
When the bottom plate is on top of ThermalDry Floor Matting, you can shoot nails through the bottom plate, through the ThermalDry basement floor matting (http://www.basementsystems.com/basement_waterproofing/basement_floor/), into the concrete floor.
03-15-2007, 06:49 AM
The local installer told me not to use any nails or screws, but if i had to then I could screw into the thermal dry flooring only and not the concrete. Even places that do not have thermal dry flooring installed they said to only use construction adhesive and not nails or screws because the concrete is too thin and the nails and screws would go through the top of the water guard.
08-08-2007, 04:06 PM
I will be installing the same materials next month. What was the outcome of this situation, as I will be finishing the walls and am intending on either screwing or nailing through the flooring. I was told by my local installer that screwing through was okay, not nailing.
08-13-2007, 07:43 AM
08-13-2007, 04:40 PM
Why is this considered the preferred method?
09-09-2007, 07:43 PM
Our waterproofing has been completed and we are meeting with our contractor tomorrow. Does anyone have experience framing over thermal dry floor system?
10-30-2007, 07:45 PM
I did my own framing. I tried about 5 different kinds of Liquid Nails and Professional Construction Adhesive and nothing worked. It may have had something to do with the shiny surface of the floor. Sometimes adhesive doesn't like sticking to shiny surfaces.
When I had this floor installed, it was new at the time, meaning they just started using the 12" tiles and only pinned the outer edge. 95% of my floor was unlocking at the corners of each tile and pulling up. Walking on it was like walking on popcorn with the noise...good thing I planned to carpet over it because I never would have kept the floor there by itself. They came back and pinned every tile with 2 pins in some which helped but didn't completely solve that problem.
Some of the outer edge tiles where the base plates are attached are coming up, so attaching a base plate to a floating tile like that just didn't seem like a smart thing to do. My local installer said it was ok to nail or screw through the base plate into the concrete, just pay attention to how long the screws or nails are. He said there may be a little seepage if you do this, but I don't see how since the water guard would have to be full of water for this to happen.
Carpeting is finally being installed next week, which is why I am here today. The installers are pushing back because they never heard of a flooring system like this. Since I was assured by Basement Systems that it would be no problem, I am looking for the installation sheet.
10-31-2007, 09:08 AM
Call the dealer that installed the ThermalDry Floor Matting and ask them to fax you or the carpet company a copy of the installation sheet.
10-31-2007, 09:55 AM
I too am having the carpet installers out this weekend to field measure. I'm expecting all sorts of resistance when they see the flooring. What should we tell them?
That it is okay to nail the _____ through the plastic thermadry floor?
Will the nails come pull out because of the plastic?
Do they need to be screwed in instead?
If it should be screwed, should the screws then go into the concrete below?
If you do receive an installation sheet or have additional information about carpeting over thermaldry flooring, please contact me: eberky at gmail dot com" (replacing the usual - at with @ and dot with . )
11-09-2007, 02:28 PM
The carpet installer should nail or screw into the concrete floor to fasten the tack strip. Using a liquid glue is a good idea but you would need to wait until it dries before you can lay the carpet.
11-10-2009, 10:29 AM
I currently have a 36x36 post and beam barn that we are finishing as a house. It has a 4ft concrete crawlspace, and OSB decking. Our plan is to lay the pine T&G flooring on the whole first floor, and then go in and frame the interior walls on top of the flooring. It makes laying the flooring a lot easier. What do you think? Can this work? We do not need to be able to rip up flooring in the future - were more likely to want to tear down walls.
Ive only found one comment on this technique, and the suggestion was to drill a hole through the base plate and flooring, then remove the plate, then widen the hole in the pine flooring, then nail down the framing as usual through the OSB and joist. This gives some room for the pine to expand and contract about the nail. Does this sound like a good idea?
Thank you for your thoughts
11-11-2009, 08:26 AM
The short answer is yes, this is a good idea if you are laying all the flooring and building the walls on top of the flooring. The drier the pine, the better. A high moisture content in the pine flooring can contribute to problems down the road. But overall, the plan is a good one to prevent cracking even though it is a little more labor intensive.
Also, I would have the crawl space (http://www.basementsystems.com/crawl-space.html) below addressed. This can contribute to moisture rising up into your home, via your new hardwood floors and can cause mold issues, so this is something you'll definitely want to prevent.
Hope this helps and good luck with your project!
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